Smock cuff being pressed on my clapper.

Cuff pressed and ready to attach.

Italian fashion smock front. You can see that the sleeve on one side is rather long.

Showing the smock sleeve view all puffed up.

Another view of the puffed up sleeve.

Italian smock back view - yes it is a bit snug.

Showing the hem, and the longer length of the sleeve which hangs lower than the body.

View of the square neck which was hand sewn.

Detail view of the hand sewn neck. It was turned under twice and carefully sewn down with extra stitching at the corners.

Petticoat bodies pattern front

Petticoat bodies pattern side front

Petticoat bodies pattern back

Petticoat bodies pattern front again

Petticoat bodies pattern front holding center out to show curve

Petticoat bodies pattern laid out.

Petticoat bodies pattern laid out on linen canvas for tracing

Showing how closely the pattern pieces were puzzled together near center front top.

Close puzzled pieced patterns near center front bottom.

Front panels showing sewn channels. Sewn through 2 layers of linen canvas, and 1 layer of cotton/linen lining.

Front panel showing trimmed seam allowance from the linen canvas.

Prepared interlinings and lining against the red silk dupioni outer fabric.

Prepared back interlining fabrics prepared with 1 layer of linen canvas, and 1 layer of cotton/linen lining.

Trying to find the straight of grain as the edges are not straight.

Showing the imperfections of this slubby silk.

View of back pattern piece layed on red silk.

Interior after all layers sewn, clipped, trimmed and ready to turn.

Detail of center front upper corner showing the trimmed fabric, ready to fold the edges for a crisp corner.

Front pattern piece sewn, clipped and pressed.

Showing the other piece, sewn, clipped and pressed.

Finished interior showing the channels sewn to the lining layer.

View of sewn back, done similar to the front.

Detail view showing how the red silk is offset from the lining fabric along the edge. This provides extra fabric for the turn of fabric along the sewn edges.

Pressing seam on wooden clapper.

Pressing seam on padded roll.

Detail showing the linen canvas is trimmed just shy of the final seam.

Showing the final turn of the cloth edge which hides the lining layer.

Had to piece a portion of the remnant fabrics for a side gore.

The petticoat bodies sewn together, and the straps are pinned into place for fitting.

The front curve of the bust can be seen on this side view. There is space for the bosom!

Trying to show the back view. The straps appear to be close to the body.

The front appears to be a straight edge. Without any boning, there are some wrinkles showing.

Obligatory cat photo of Bootsie watching me while I was taking photos. She doesn't sit on fabric.

The bodice lying flat, which shows the front curve clearly.

Detail of center front closure area showing the curve of the front pieces.

Detail view of my hand sewing the pleats into place.

I use the divide & conquer method which works up a little faster than regular cartridge pleating, but has a sloppy pleat appearance.

Detail view, showing the catch stitches that hold the upper skirt edge down into place.

Petticoat skirt was slit for 8" down the center front near the waistline to allow me to put on the outfit easily. I first ran a running stitch near the intended cut slit.

The edge of the slit was then bound with a buttonhole stitch.

For the hem binding, I used my new silamide thread bought from B. Black & Sons. This shows the uncut loop of threads.

Just to show what the name & info is.

The two main silk damask fabrics. One is in purple and dark gold, the other in ivory and light golden yellow.

Showing the other side of the damask.

At least one of the pieces will have a centered design.

Which side looks better? I ended up using the one on the left as the contrast of colors looked better with my skintone. The more golden right clashed with my asian skintone.

Trimming off the upper edge of the skirt by my serger.

Just wanted a close-up shot of my serger foot.

Ungathered skirt panels on hanger, waiting to be attached.

Kirtle bodice nearly compete. The bodice pattern is very similar to the petticoat bodice with a few areas drawn higher, or is bound and sits higher. The front edges overlaps by a half-inch.

Left side of bodice.

Detail view of right side showing bars.

Back view of kirtle bodies.

Closer back view of kirtle bodies.

Front view of bodice hooked together.

Once the bodice was mostly sewn, I bound the skirt in a cross-grain of the purple & gold fabric, using the more golden side for a subtle contrast.

Test fitting the kirtle bodice.

Side view showing my ample curves.

The damask kirtle was backed with cotton flannel for body. Here I am sewing a running stitch to help gather the fullness of the fabric.

Just showing the front of the skirt being gathered.

The skirts are gathering.

Hook & bars used to close the kirtle front.

Closer view of hooks & bars.

Close-up of a hook.

Close-up of a bar.

Showing how the hooks show when the garment is under stress. The outer fabric is shifting back from the interlining and lining layers.

A view of my skirts while worn. I'm trying to show some of the matching designs, but it doesn't show in this pic.