Home > Warderobe Accounts > 1530s Tudor Kirtle & Gown

October 2007
Jan-Feb 2007

Started: May 6, 2006
Finished: December 9, 2006
Updated: October 6, 2007

Photos of the mostly completed ensemble are here, for now. The first group of photos are the most recent. As can be seen, I've lost some weight since the second group of photos were taken earlier this year. While I did take in about 5" from the side seams on both garment bodices, the fit has been affected, and the bodice clearly shows as being too long on my torso, a problem that will only be adjusted sometime later, after my weight is stable at a lower level, when I completely remake the bodices on both garments.

October 2007: Thanks to Robin Small and Bob Spikard for taking these sets of photos of me. Bob especially took time from his busy schedule selling his lovely jewelry at The Dragon's Treasure booth during 2007 Hanford Renaissance of Kings faire to take these photos of the whole ensemble. Robin took the kirtle photos of me in our front yard.

Jan-Feb 2007: I give thanks to Barbara who took the first photo at the 2007 St. Henry's 12th Night event. Thanks also to Roger Franz for taking most of these photos for me at the hotel for the Renaissance Symposium 2007 (San Jose).

The kirtle (supporting undergarment) is covered in gold & peach changeable silk taffeta. Yellow linen makes up most of the kirtle that you cannot usually see. The bodice is boned with plastic cable ties, interlined with hemp canvas and cotton drill. The attached skirt is lined in hemp canvas in front, but the linen is the lining, with parts covered in silk. The hem is bound in red cotton velvet. The bodice is laced with a spiral lace down both sides, with hand sewn eyelets in heavy weight 50/3 linen thread. The neckline is edged with polymer clay ouches (jewels) and faux pearls to mimic period carcanets.

The gown (outer garment) is made from deep red lightweight worsted wool gabardine. The turnback sleeves are lined in wine & black changeable silk taffeta. It is lined in orange linen, and interlined in cotton drill, with minimal boning along the bodice front. The hem is bound in black cotton velvet. The bodice is laced down the center front in a spiral lace. The eyelets are hand sewn in heavy weight silk thread. In the October 2007 images, the train is shown being held up with a hook and thread eye. I later had to hold it up by a corsage pin, which I think is a better choice.

A fore-part and fore-sleeves of black and gold metallic brocade, lined in orange linen, and interlined in cotton drill. The fore-sleeves have puffs of lightweight cotton/silk voile, and polymer clay ouches. The fore-part is pinned into place onto the kirtle front. These two items have been added to upgrade the garment for glitzy court wear, since Hanford RoK was supposed to be during the Field of Cloth of Gold, and my character of high station.

More info on the French hood and the linen smock can be found elsewhere on my site. It appears that both need some adjustment as well for my weight loss. The French hood strap was removed, and the hood held on with pins in the hood into my braided hair.

Please note that while I did consult many images of the 1520s-1530s to design this garment, I did not actually chose one or two inspiration image, like I often do.

If you are interested in reading the dress diary entries, you can find them as Tudor Gown, and Tudor Kirtle. Some entries will be duplicates between the two.

If you are looking to make your own Henrician/Tudor outfit, I highly recommend using Margo Anderson's Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern, with historical notes researched by me.

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