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This is a German styled doublet with attached sleeves, in the Landskenect's interesting slash and puff style. The doublet was created for a young male teenager, for his mother and step-father's wedding event, and for use at faire.

This was an another interesting garment crafted from a simple woodcut, provided by the client. Thankfully, the German woodcuts are more detailed than the Irish woodcuts, so it is easier to translate them into a real garment. However, it is based on German Landskenect stylings, which I knew little about at the time. I learned rather quickly from a friend, Cherylyn Crill, who is very familar with the German styles as she is involved with the same German military group as the client. She assisted me with the design translation from the woodcut, understanding the German styles in general, and the fabric choices.

To get the appropriate look from the woodcut, the doublet is created from a jacquard, made from a mixed blend of fibers including cotton. The lining for the body is a cotton twill for both comfort and durability. I knew it would be a little hotter than an all-natural fiber garment, so the sleeves are lined in a light cotton muslin, and it is open in the back near the body, only attached at the shoulders to allow ventilation from the backside.

The body itself is slashed vertically in panes, and the puffs are small cuts where puffs of red material is pulled through. The German Landskenects love color, which is why the puffs are red, and not the more common white (usually to show the shirt underneath). I also bound the edges in the red twill for contrast.

The doublet closes with individually sewn hook and eyes down the front. The back of the doublet shows the lacings up the side back. This will allow the doublet to continue to fit the young man as he grows. As he will also grow taller, the doublet was purposely made a little long for him to grow into.

The lacings are done in the spiral fashion¹, which is historically appropriate compared to how we lace items today, like our shoes. The eyelets are all hand bound, which in my experience is stronger and longer lasting than metal grommets, not to mention historically accurate as well. I prefer to do all my eyelets by hand.

I really enjoyed creating this historical garment, and I hope the young man who it was made for had many great adventures while wearing it.

Resources:

1. The Zen of Spiral Lacing, an Internet site that explains how to create spiral lacing, as was done for this doublet

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